The Borgias.
The best looking show on TV by a significant margin, and in fact tops Rome as the prettiest I remember seeing. And super fun - Jeremy Irons hams it up ludicrously, the rest of the family steam up the screen with a great deal of extremely good looking sexual and political tension (and relieving of said tension). No idea how historically factual it is, but it feels reasonably convincing. And did I say fun? I seem to spend half the episodes laughing.
Easily my favourite show at the moment.